The result is a demi glace, fume or chicken stock that can used up until 3 weeks after production. Try that with a lexan of pomodoro sauce in chilled down overnight in a cooler; anyway I digress....
Since the paper is 38 pages long - I'd like to suggest that anyone interested in the document by Douglas Baldwin and is very detailed and scientific where it needs to be, including time and temperature logs, graphs and charts - it's well worth the time to email me at cheflam@aol.com and I'll get it right out to you.
A taste is found here;
Introduction by Douglas Baldwin
<
sealed plastic pouches at low temperatures for long
times. Sous vide differs from conventional cooking
methods in two fundamental ways: (i) the raw food
is vacuum sealed in plastic pouches and (ii) the food
is cooked using precisely controlled heating.
Vacuum packaging prevents evaporative losses of
flavor volatiles and moisture during cooking and inhibits
off-flavors from oxidation (Church and Parsons,
2000). This results in especially flavorful and
nutritious food (Church, 1998; Creed, 1998; García-
Linares et al., 2004; Ghazala et al., 1996; Lassen
et al., 2002; Schellekens, 1996; Stea et al., 2006).
Vacuum sealing also reduces aerobic bacterial growth
and allows for the efficient transfer of thermal energy
from the water (or steam) to the food.
Precise temperature control is important when
cooking fish, meat and poultry. Consider the
problem of cooking a thick-cut steak medium-rare.
Cooking the steak on a grill at over 1 000°F (500°C)
until the center comes up to 120°F (50°C) will result
in everything but the very center being overcooked.
A common solution is to sear one side of the
steak in a pan, flip the steak over, and place the pan
in a 275°F (135°C) oven until the center comes up
to 131°F (55°C). For sous vide, the steak is vacuum
sealed in a plastic pouch, cooked in a 131°F (55°C)
water bath for a couple hours, and then seared in a
smoking hot pan or with a blowtorch; the result is a
medium-rare steak with a great crust that is the same
doneness at the edge as it is at the center. Moreover,
the flavorful flat iron steak can be cooked (very safely)
in a 131°F (55°C) water bath for 24 hours and will be
both medium-rare and as tender as filet mignon>>
<
sealed plastic pouches at low temperatures for long
times. Sous vide differs from conventional cooking
methods in two fundamental ways: (i) the raw food
is vacuum sealed in plastic pouches and (ii) the food
is cooked using precisely controlled heating.
Vacuum packaging prevents evaporative losses of
flavor volatiles and moisture during cooking and inhibits
off-flavors from oxidation (Church and Parsons,
2000). This results in especially flavorful and
nutritious food (Church, 1998; Creed, 1998; García-
Linares et al., 2004; Ghazala et al., 1996; Lassen
et al., 2002; Schellekens, 1996; Stea et al., 2006).
Vacuum sealing also reduces aerobic bacterial growth
and allows for the efficient transfer of thermal energy
from the water (or steam) to the food.
Precise temperature control is important when
cooking fish, meat and poultry. Consider the
problem of cooking a thick-cut steak medium-rare.
Cooking the steak on a grill at over 1 000°F (500°C)
until the center comes up to 120°F (50°C) will result
in everything but the very center being overcooked.
A common solution is to sear one side of the
steak in a pan, flip the steak over, and place the pan
in a 275°F (135°C) oven until the center comes up
to 131°F (55°C). For sous vide, the steak is vacuum
sealed in a plastic pouch, cooked in a 131°F (55°C)
water bath for a couple hours, and then seared in a
smoking hot pan or with a blowtorch; the result is a
medium-rare steak with a great crust that is the same
doneness at the edge as it is at the center. Moreover,
the flavorful flat iron steak can be cooked (very safely)
in a 131°F (55°C) water bath for 24 hours and will be
both medium-rare and as tender as filet mignon>>
By way of explaining the detail in the paper I've included the email string between Greg and I where he tries to hip me to finer details and how he makes it work at his restaurant, The Charles Court at The Broadmoor. In particular you'll see these suddenly chic techniques on his Dinner Menu September 2010
Our conversation, like much of life is done moving forward but can only be clearly understood in reverse so if you don't mind...he sez....
Ok, we do add some corn syrup to boost the simple sugars and also baking soda
for ph so that the amino acids in the protein morph to sugar faster for the
"crisp" texture you speak of. As far as testing, I just let go and let God on
that one. If you set the temps right on the circulator and then properly shock
at the end, you should be in good shape. Celsius is we can set the temps to a
tenth of a degree as opposed to our clunky forms of U.S. measurements only by the
1/4 of a degree. You don't see any measurements in lbs in any science book right?
Short ribs we cook for 3 days in the circulator with a dry rub cure for 24 hrs,
rinse, bag with herbs, garlic, shallots, butter and then the cooking for 3 days
at 65c. For the reheat, we don't put back in the water but reheat in pan for
maillard and add either demi or remi and you have short ribs on the plate in
like 5-7 min. P h is specific to proteins. You need to research on the USDA web
site to get the low down, but leaner animals like venison, buffalo have less and
you need to add sodium-bicarbonate as well as fructose to get the result you
want. With the braised items you need to leave in the bag with all the natural
juice until you are ready to serve, just like leaving it in the braising liquid
for the traditional way. Important: sous vide intensifies everything so you
use like half or less salt, seasoning, garlic than normal.
Hope this helps....
b
________________________________
From: Adam M Lamb
To: GREGORY BARNHILL
Subject: Re: Hey Now
Brother
In regards to the Maillard reaction do you find yourself adding any extra
sugars to facilitate a nice crisp exterior? How would one test for any remaining
pathogens or spore outbreaks to ensure proper pasteurization? Do you find that
you're referring to your temps in Celsius because of the settings on the
circulator or just because most of the literature is in metric? Keeping the
sauce separate makes perfect sense so how do you handle something that would
have been traditionally braised such as short ribs? Oil, seasonings, bag, poach,
chill then build the sauce separately - upon order reheat in hot water, sear,
sauce and a quick simmer to replicate the traditional process? At what point do
you concern yourself with the ph of the product; is it specific to a particular
protein? Questions Questions, love love
A
~ be a river ~
Subject: RE: Hey Now
Well, we don't sous vide with sauces at all. We add aromatics and oil or butter
to the protein and usually pasteurize it to a nice medium rare or 55c. The most
important thing is to shock it after the circulator bath so there is no chance
of bacterial growth. At service all we have to do is the maillard reaction to
caramelize the meat, bring it to temp and were done. The egg deal is pretty
much if you want safer eggs, then pasteurize them. Same as the old coddled egg
for Caesar of yore. However, we cook them at 64.5c for two hours for the most
perfect poached egg that you have ever seen. They come out egg shaped!! On one
of our dishes we take the perfectly poached egg, bread it and fry it and serve
it with shrimp and grits. So the deal is you have this egg that looks like hard
boiled and crunchy, but you cut into it, the yolk runs out and the whites are
soft. Kinda mind blowing when you first see it. The sauces we do separately
with the bones and what not and we do bag them, but just for storage. We have
them in 1qt bags and just throw them in the steam well just before service to
bring them to temp, and then mount au beurre to finish. The other really cool
deal about all this is that first the vac machine pumps air into the bag,
opening up the cells of the meat, then when it vacuums, it puts all the flavor
of the herbs and oil directly into the meat so it basically marinates in like 30
seconds instead of 12-24 hours. Also, the compression process is great for
tomatoes, apples, pears and etc as it intensifies their flavor 10 fold just like
reducing a sauce. The time tables are not accurate for us at 6500 feet, but
most likely would be for you. The thing to remember is that once the item gets
to the temp you set, it cant go over so there is little to no chance of over
cooking anything.
I haven't found the right time to see if we can have you out yet. I will be
doing a benefit dinner tomorrow night with chef Sigi and that should be the time
then. I will let you know.
much love b
From: Adam M Lamb
To: GREGORY BARNHILL
Subject: Re: Hey Now
wow, what a great piece - I'll have to reread it in order to get the math
right but have you found that generally the time/temp tables to be accurate? In
almost all recipes he doesn't address the addition of sauces much even though he
does point out the the addition of a sauce impact the pasteurization time
significantly; any reliable rules o' the road that you've developed/discovered
in your mad scientist experiments?
still trying to wrap my head around the pasteurization of the eggs; are they
to be used like regular eggs in like a mousse recipe?
many questions, hell I just gotta come and see it done - did you ever ask
about a site visit for me and the liability ramifications? Will I be able to hold
a knife?
you're a gift to me, my brother - in gratitude, I remain always, yours
Adam
Sent: Mon, Sep 20, 2010 2:03 pm
Subject: RE: Hey Now
here is something to start with; refer to the white paper, available from cheflam@aol.com
From: Adam M Lamb
To: GREGORY BARNHILL
Subject: Re: Hey Now Hey that was arousing in a strange yet wonderful way - thanks my
brother; we'll need to get into a complete dissertation on sous vide; I have a
feeling that it'll come to the forefront of my efforts soon enough.....
Sent: Mon, Sep 20, 2010 1:44 pm
Subject: RE: Hey Now not yet but hope they do so I can sell your ass to them.
Miss you too my brotherb To: GREGORY BARNHILL Subject: Re: Hey Now Nothing as of yet but I can already see myself there, coming up with ideas, procedures and products to make a difference! All good things, positive mind set regardless of what my reality might look like now; sowing the seeds of success with my thoughts, intentions and deeds Loving you! I take it that no one has called you for a reference or rave reviews? Love to the family! And so it goes between my friend and me....
